The remains of the Baal-gad temple, recently renovated by the municipality. Photos by Anne Ilcinkas
Located at the foot of Mount Hermon, just a few miles from the Syrian and Israeli borders, the village of Hebbarieh, in the caza of Hasbaya in southern Lebanon, has been synonymous with resistance against different occupiers for centuries.
Canaanites, Hebrews and Ottomans were aware of the village’s strategic location and each tried to conquer it, the first recorded attempt dating back to 2000 BC. Since antiquity, Hebbarieh has been surrounded by watch towers that made it hard for invaders to enter the village. The remains of these fortifications are still visible today. "Historically, these towers have played a crucial role in defence," says Said Zaher, an engineer from the village. “These were used as a means of communication between fighters who sent signals through fires as the enemy approached.”
The etymology of the name Hebbarieh is still unclear. Some say that it is derived from the name Houver, a former Roman army general who controlled the village. But others claim that the name, mentioned in ancient texts, refers to the meal eaten after funerals, and there were many funerals throughout the history of the village as a result of the inhabitants fighting off occupying powers several times. There are hundreds, even thousands, of martyrs from the village who tirelessly defended their land over the centuries. "But it was during the Ottoman occupation that Hebbarieh took the form we know today," says Zaher. "The Lebanese youth fleeing compulsory Ottoman military service came from all over the country to hide in the mountains of Hebbarieh. After a few years, they settled here, hence the diversity of our community."
Zaher says the golden years of the village were during the 1950s, thanks to the "high rate of education among the inhabitants".
An 800-year-old olive tree and a Roman temple
Hebbarieh is not a popular destination among tourists, but the municipality has set out on a mission to change that and increase the flow of visitors to this southern village. As their first step, they planted 2,000 trees in order to create a nature reserve to attract campers and hikers. At the site, visitors can find a variety of trees, including pines and oaks in addition to olive trees. Hebbarieh is also home to the third oldest olive tree in Lebanon, which dates back to the 13th century; the two oldest are located in Hasbaya and Ebl el-Saqi.
Baal-gad, a Roman temple, one of the oldest in the Middle East, is the most important archeological site in the village. Almost 2000 years old, the temple, along with the observation towers, was renovated by the municipality with Spanish funding. The renovation helped attract tourists and build a reputation for the village as a cultural destination.
These historic monuments are not the only sites that draw visitors to the village. Tourists also come to Hebbarieh for religious purposes, mainly to visit two old mosques, al-Nasser Salaheddine and Qassem Abou Ali. “According to the Holy texts, Jesus Christ passed by Hebbarieh before reaching the summit of Mount Hermon, called in Arabic Jabal el-Sheikh," Zaher explains.
The Tuesday souk
The inhabitants of Hebbarieh make their living from agriculture, especially selling olives, figs and grape leaves (for which there is a strong demand in the Lebanese market) and from selling coal and wood.
On Tuesdays, the village’s suburbs host the El-Khan souk. On market day, the forest nearby hosts falafel sellers and street vendors offering a variety of products, notably pistachios, shishas and kitchen utensils. The market is reserved for local traders and serves as an example of coexistence with Druze, Muslim and Christian merchants sharing the space.
All products are offered at competitive prices, but shoppers still enjoy bargaining. Visitors can also find out more about their luck from the myriad of fortune tellers at the souk who give it an oriental touch. According to visitors, the concept of El Khan souk is very different from the ones in other cities, which enhances its reputation.
El Khan is a magical place that serves as a destination for southerners and local and foreign tourists who come to discover the secrets to be found in these low-key markets. It has also operated continuously throughout years of war and occupation. If you come on a Tuesday, you will enjoy the hospitality of the merchants who will offer you their specialties and walk you through the marketplace, which takes its name from a nearby khan, Khan Hasbaya.
Constructed in the 17th century, Khan Hasbaya was built on an international road linking Egypt to Palestine. Not only did El Khan welcome travelers and merchants, who used it for lodging during their journeys, but also pilgrims, craftsmen, geographers and even soldiers.
El Khan market, located a few meters away from the old site, is helping to preserve the gathering and trading traditions which started hundreds of years ago.
Fact sheet :
Number of residents : approximately 1,500 in winter; 3,000 in summer.
Mayor : Ayman Choucair.
Main personalities from the village : Noureddine Noureddine (lawyer) and Said Zaher (engineer), who both played a part in developing the region.
Restaurants : small cafés and snacks
Culinary specialties : Hebbarieh is well known for its different kebbe (nayye, rass, etc.), especially the kebbe jnoubiye
Activities : hiking, snowshoeing, cycling and camping
Altitude : 800 meters.
Climate : Mediterranean, cold in winter.
Must-see
* The Roman Temple of Baal-gad
* Al-Nasser Salaheddine and Kassem Abou Ali Mosques
* The old souk, renovated by the municipality
* The natural reserve
How to get there?
From Beirut, take the Saida highway straight to Nabatieh, then go to Qleyaa, Hasbaya and Fardis before entering Hebbariyeh.
